ext_51796: (asoiaf_sansa_speaks)
[identity profile] reynardine.livejournal.com
A question was asked on the SCA Japanese Facebook page: "Padded Uchigi. Is this just, like, quilted? fluffy? Essentially really thick interfacing? I assume they used silk, but I can't envision what the final product looks like."

My answer:

真綿 (mawata) is low-quality silk, nowadays mostly used for making handkerchiefs, but was used for padding on winter garments. This page shows what it looks like: http://www.wildfibres.co.uk/html/mulberry_silk.html

"Was it just stuffed in or how did it stay in place?"

John Marshall actually has a chapter about it in his _Make Your Own Japanese Clothes_, where he discusses the traditional method and then a more modern method better suited towards modern washing using easier to find material (since his book IS about modern clothes). Mawata is sticky, so you basically layer it in place. This webpage shows the process for silk handkerchiefs--it is just on a larger scale for garments. http://www.wormspit.com/mawatas.htm

Marshall, John. Make Your Own Japanese Clothes (Tokyo; Kodansha International, 2013 reprint) 978-1568364933. Originally printed in 1988, ISBN 087011865X.
ext_51796: (hallow_hello_kitty)
[identity profile] reynardine.livejournal.com
I signed up to do an outfit for a project that one of my fellow Calontiri, Cecilia, is doing: she is creating photographic portraits recreating the illuminations in Richard Tessard's version of Boccaccio's "The Lives of Famous Women". You can see the pictures on this Pinterest page. My first two choices were already taken, but I settled on the portrait of Cornificia, who was a 1st century BC Roman poet. The dress is plain compared to some of the others, so I think I can manage it, plus with that pose and the cloak, it won't matter that I'm so fat.

Boccaccio writes of her that "She was equal in glory to her brother Cornificius, who was a much renowned poet at that time. Not satisfied with excelling in such a splendid art, inspired by the sacred Muses, she rejected the distaff and turned her hands, skilled in the use of the quill, to writing Heliconian verses... With her genius and labor she rose above her sex, and with her splendid work she acquired a perpetual fame." Her work is lost, but St. Jerome mentions her in his chronicles in 4th century AD, so her work was good enough that it was being read 400 years after her death, and by St. Jerome to boot, who was not an easy man to please.

Here is the picture she will be recreating:

Cornificia

Although color substitutions are being allowed, I think I already have linen in both that blue and the light purple. The tight sleeves look like those of a Gothic fitted dress, but those gathers in front resemble a houppelande? But those tend to have big or hanging sleeves and women mostly wear those belted. This dress is NOT belted. It might be some kind of loose gown?

There's a similar dress on the Blessed Virgin Mary in The Calvary Triptych by Hugo van der Goes (@1468). Sleeves are a bit different, but the shape of the dress looks similar.

hugo_van_der_goes_1469

Here's another example by van der Goes from the Monforte alterpiece. He puts the Virgin Mary in this same style of dress consistently.

vandergoes_wijzen_monforte_grt

So anyway, have some research to do. I'm going to try to finish this outfit by the end of July.
ext_51796: (X-Subaru)
[identity profile] reynardine.livejournal.com
Battling con crud from Worldcon this week. I'm supposed to be doing a translation for someone, but my brain is so fuzzy that I haven't been able to concentrate, so I've been sewing on part of my Queen's Prize Project, which is on zukin (hoods). I'm doing the sode-zukin (which is the wimple kind of zukin that I did for that paper I wrote years ago), the zukin from The Maple Viewers (and yes, what those ladies are wearing ARE zukin--I've found modern variants), a mousu (which looks like a sode-zukin, but are larger) and if I have time, a kato no kesa 裏頭(か[くわ]とう)の袈裟(けさ), which is what the sohei warrior monks wore. The kanji translates as "a kesa worn on the head". Kesa is a Buddhist religious garment usually worn over kimono as a kind of apron.

zukin

Sode-zukin example from the NHK taiga drama Fuurin Kazan.

I'm really excited about this last one--I kept wondering why I would sometimes see seam lines on what usually looks like just a rectangular white cloth tied around the head. It's a kesa! And kesa are usually sewn with what is called the rice-field pattern. And THAT explains the seam lines!

Benkei

From the NHK Drama Yoshitsune, the Warrior Monk Benkei is wearing a Kato no Kesa.

The only thing is I will have to sew like the wind to get the thing done in time and with the pattern, that's going to be tricky. Plus I still have to write up the information, in a simple format since this is not a literary entry. But I still have almost 3 weeks. I might skip the mousu (which I don't have as much info about, just an entry from the Japanese Costume Museum) and concentrate on the kato no kesa instead.

Ingibiorg, who also does Japanese poetry here in Calontir, did a poetry exchange with me this summer and asked if she could enter it as an A&S entry for Cattle Raids (an event up in Lincoln, Nebraska where she lives). We each wrote up explanations about our respective poems and how we took elements from each other in the exchange. I think she was going to present the poems on some marbled paper or something? Anyway, no word as to how that turned out. I hope she got some good feedback, since most people tend to ignore poetry entries.
ext_51796: (research_sunako)
[identity profile] reynardine.livejournal.com
God bless obsessive manga artists who blog about their work and how they are going to draw medieval Buddhist outfits by making little drawings showing how said outfits are put together. Sure, it's a tertiary source, but given the lack of primary and secondary sources in English (except photos of emaki, paintings, and statues, and some spare descriptions on the Japanese Costume Museum site), I'll take it. Got a lot of translation to do, though. (PS, I will share the source later once I get some things translated, including the artist/writer's name, so I can properly credit). (PSS: Won't be this week, cause Worldcon.) Oh, and those cloth hats the ladies are wearing in The Maple Viewers? So totally zukin. Like I said. *vindication feels like victory*
ext_51796: (furuba_shigure_is_amused)
[identity profile] reynardine.livejournal.com
I got some cotton fabric on clearance recently, at $1.56/yd. Medium-weight. The print is a bit modern, a floral watercolor thing, but if you squint, it looks like it was dyed. I want to make a kosode or yukata from it, to experiment more with patterning for a larger woman, and also partially line it (sleeves, shoulders, butt). I'd wear a light-weight linen unlined kosode beneath. Figured it could work for hot weather events.

IMG_6379

I also have a more expensive light-weight linen that is thin blue stripes, but before I make up something with it, I want to experiment with the cheap stuff.

Last year, I found a cute (modern) pineapple cotton print at the thrift store. I forget the yardage, but I think it was only $2 or $3 for the entire thing. Maybe 5 yards? Very thin cotton, might not work for a yukata, but I'll know more after this experiment. If I can't make a fun yukata, I might just make a modern skirt. Which will have to be lined--this stuff is practically see-through. But it makes me smile. I like pineapples.

IMG_6380

Somewhere I think I've got some plain white cotton to use for the lining--if not, there's plenty of the light-weight linen, but I thought like with like might work better?

It's not like I know what I'm doing. This is actually very hard--I'm terrified of making a mistake. It always takes time for me to gather the courage to cut into fabric! But this is all very inexpensive fabric. If I screw up, I'm not out a lot of money.

The problem with being very overweight is that it is really difficult to work out how much yardage to get, because it varies based on the width of the fabric. And I'm still working out tailoring tricks to make Japanese garb look a little more flattering on me. Surely it can be done. Sumo wrestlers wear wafuku all the time! And since pre-1600 Japanese garb did not have those wide obi (belts/sashes), it's not as cylindrical as modern kimono.
ext_51796: (translation_kana)
[identity profile] reynardine.livejournal.com
I was answering a question on the SCA Japan FB page and thought I'd record my answer here as well, since I just spent about an hour translating Japanese webpages.

katsura_tsutsume_1

(I found this image on a Google Search. It is from a Japanese photo blog, looks like someone taking pictures at the 2014 Jidai Matsuri parade. The photographer's handle is EGACITE and his blog is here.)

According to the Costume Museum's Japanese website, that particular headgear is called katsura tsutsumi 桂包 (かつらづつみ). Katsura is a village, tsutsumi is a long wrapped cloth. According to legend, the women of Katsura began wrapping their heads this way back when the Empress Jingu conquered the three Han states in Korea--the original wrapping was her belt (literally 腹帯 (ふくたい) fukutai = abdominal band, bellybelt, maternity belt, per WWWJDICT translation). It goes on to say that there is no evidence that the legend is true. Here's a link to a different translation of the page. And yes, as Mistress Saionji says, it's a long wrapped rectangular cloth. (Side note: Zukin are a different type of headdress--it literally translates to "hood" and was mostly seen on women who had taken Buddhist religious vows of some type.)

Here is a translation I did off of another Japanese page that was defining the term katsura tsutsumi from the Daijirin 3rd Edition: Wrap the head from behind with a long cloth such as a towel, Knot in front, then pull back the remainder on both sides of the face. This was customarily worn by common women of the Muromachi period. “Katsura” [which can mean wig] comes from the village of Katsura.

And a partial rough translation from the Encyclopedia Nipponica: A woman’s headdress from the late middle ages. Wrap the head like a headband in a long white cloth, tied a bit lower in the front. It is also called “Katsura-maki”. From Katsura Village in the Kyoto Western Suburbs. The custom was supposedly begun by fishwives and candy sellers carrying their wares. Legend claims it was bestowed on the women of Katsura by the Empress Jingu, who conquered the Three Han States (in Korea). Pictorial evidence shows this a custom of common women rather than those of the aristocracy, and there are many depictions of common women so attired.

There's more, but I have to get back to real life. Didn't realize there would be so much out there on a simple search. Here's the webpage where I found the above two definitions.

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